How to Stay Dry on a Wet Hike

ContentWhen you are hiking for multiple days or have planned a trip in advance, it is hard to know what the weather will be so it is important to be prepared for anything. Just a few easy tips can help you to stay warm and dry so that you can enjoy your hike, even in the rain!
First, always pack a pair of waterproof, nylon pants. You can pick up a pair at any outdoor or sporting goods store. Buy a pair that is one size bigger than you wear so that they can be layered over other clothing when it is cold. Choose a pair that comes with an elastic waistband and snaps around the bottom. Many also have the nice feature of folding up into a tiny pouch or fitting into the back pocket so that they store themselves. Always keep these pants with you on a hike so that if it starts to rain, you can quickly pull them on over your pants. Be sure that you pants are completely covered and then snap the bottoms tight around your boots.
Just like the pants, it is easy to find a waterproof nylon jacket to pull on over your clothes. Be sure that the jacket ends well below your waistline so that there is an overlap between the jacket and the pants.
You can tuck your shirt into the elastic band of the nylon pants and then let the jacket fall outside of the pants to ensure that all of your clothes stay dry. Finally, use a jacket with a hood that tightens with a drawstring. Draw the hood tightly closed around your face so that water does not drip in. As a final step, you can wear a hat with a visor under you hood to keep water off of your face.

Taping Your Hands

Medical tape works...
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Unless you’ve got very calloused hands, climbing around and hanging from rough rocks by your fingers all day is going to be tough on your skin. Rock climbing can also put significant strain on your individual digits, especially those holds that leave you with only enough space to hang from one or two fingers. Some of them even require you to wedge a single finger into a crack and twist it in order to lock it in–all of the weight hanging from that arm is being placed on that finger!

While the weight won’t change if you do, wearing tape or gloves can help protect your hands from rough rock surfaces, and tape in particular can reenforce the tiny muscles in your fingers, reducing your risk of injuring them due to strain. Taping is the most common method of protecting the hands in rock climbing. Most rock climbing stores that sell gear for the sport also sell climber’s tape, but pressure-sensitive medical tape is more commonly used. Medical tape, which is adhesive, is preferred for a variety of reasons: it is strong enough to reenforce muscles, is designed to let skin breathe through it, leaves little to no residue when removed, and has a rough exterior texture that makes it ideal for giving athletes more grip when they tape their hands. Medical tape is used by athletes of numerous types, rock climbing being just one of them.

Typically, the fingers and joints such as the wrists are taped most often. One technique is to create a glove out of tape by taping the entire hand, but the most popular method of taping is to create “figure-eight” of sorts around each joint. Taping your fingers when training during recovery from an injury reduces the strain on the muscles; however, do not use this as a crutch. If you don’t reduce the intensity of your routine to allow your muscles to heal, all you’ll be doing is progressively injuring yourself further, so use common sense and don’t think of tape as an instant cure for injuries that might slow down your routine.

Ways to Wax Your Skis

How to hold a wax scrapper. Push away from the...
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Waxing your skis can be an imposing task. There are so many things to consider: what kind of wax should you use? How much? What temperature conditions will you be skiing in? Do you need grip, glide, both or neither? Many people buy waxless skis just to avoid the fuss of learning the “language” of ski waxing!

Waxes

Once you look past there consistencies, there are really only two types of ski wax: grip and glide. Grip wax to stick to snow, glide to smooth over it. Pick which you need based on your skiing type and style, and which form of each to use will halfway be determined by what tools you have on hand.

Waxing Tools

Ski wax can be applied many ways, and most of them are pretty straightforward. Waxes in paste and liquid forms need only be smeared on in a thin layer to the proper part of the ski using a large paint brush, dried and buffed smooth with a waxing cork. Rub-on and spray-on waxes are pretty self-explanatory: rub or spray them on, then follow the same steps as above about drying and buffing. If you don’t have any tools, such as buffing brushes or hot irons, you’ll want to use one of these methods.

Hot Waxing

Of special mention because it is one of the most troublesome ski waxes, “hot” waxes aren’t actually hot at all. Rather, they’re solid sticks of wax, like large crayons, that must be heated to melting in order to be used. Once you’ve dripped melted wax onto your skis, you must smooth and iron it out evenly with a heated iron as if you are ironing a garment. Don’t make the iron too hot or cool–the correct temperature necessary to melt it should be listed on the packaging.

After it cools, the wax is scraped smooth to remove the excess, then the ski must be brushed with rough metal-bristled brushes along its length. After that, yet more brushing is required, with softer bristles this time to create a smooth wax surface that, after all of that work, is nearly a work of art.

Checking Your Rope

Dakar, Senegal (June 18, 2005) - Senegal Army ...
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If you are a rock-climber, more likely than not you use a rope while practicing your sport. Though there are styles that put rope use to a minimum, many rock-climbers heavily rely on this useful age-old tool to help them ascend walls and rock faces, and to save them from potentially life-threatening falls should they lose their grip on the latest handhold.

Any time you place your life in the care of an inanimate object, it’s essential to ensure that that object is well-maintained and in excellent condition. Think about it–if you were going skydiving, you would take every care to ensure that your parachute was not only folded well, but also in flawless working condition, right? The rope that catches you when you fall off of a cliff should be no different!

Checking your rope’s condition is easy; uncoil it slowly, examining each section as you go. Look for visible signs of wear: frayed edges to the casing, worn-through casing spots that show the inner core (usually white), and places where the rope seems noticeably thinner than the rest.

Now recoil the rope, and this time feel each section with your hands as you go. Squish the rope; the center core should have a bit of give to it, but should definitely feel like a solid cord inside of the casing. Signs of wear that you can feel include thinning or breakage of the core beneath the casing, nicks in the casing that may eventually wear through to the core, and stiffness and dryness that might suggest the rope is becoming too brittle and thus more prone to breakage.

If any of these signs of wear are present enough to be noticeable, you should get a new rope. It might seem like a small nick or worn spot now, but with gear that protects your life, it’s better to replace it too early than too late. To prevent wearing your rope out too fast, keep it clean and dust-free, don’t step on it, and try not to let it snag on any sharp edges during climbing.

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Climbing Rope Attributes

Mike raps off the back side of Muldoon, 13, at...
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Rope is an essential part of a rock-climber’s gear. Thickness, length, weight and material are all factors that a climber must consider when purchasing a rope; also, as with gear for skiing and many other sports, you must known what kind of conditions you’ll be climbing in in order to get rope that is ideally suited for them. Some ropes are more durable in ice and snow than others, for example.

Thickness

The diameter of your rope is very important–it determines how much weight the rope can hold up, including you. Climbing ropes come in diameters of 7.5mm all the way up to 11mm. The safest ropes are the 10 and 11mm ones, because the thicker they are, the stronger and more durable they are as well. The only downside is that thicker ropes add more weight, which you have to carry during your climb. Any rope smaller than 9mm is unsuitable for holding you up on its own; these ropes are made to be doubled up and clipped to different parts of your gear to evenly distribute the weight between them. Do not use them one at a time!

Length

What rope length you’ll need depends on where you’re going, how thick it is, and what your climbing style is. The typical climber’s rope length is 50 meters, but many climbers are now using ropes as long as 70 meters because the additional length can be useful in rappelling down after your climb up.

Strength

In addition to thickness, a rope’s ability to hold you and your gear is determined by how much it stretches when a weight is hanging from it, and how much of the energy it absorbs when a weight falls and is suddenly suspended from it. The more stretch a rope has, and the less impact it puts on you instead of it during a fall, generally the better it is. Stretchy ropes let you fall further before you stop, though, increasing your risk of hitting a ledge or other obstacle on the way down.

Dryness

Icy or wet conditions require a waterproofed “dry” rope.

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Municipal Bonds Add Investment Muscle to Your Portfolio

At Las Vegas casinos the old axiom goes that “The house always wins.” This means that no matter how well you might think you’re doing at the tables, sooner or later they’re going to get their money back. While you may lose it all, you have other other options than living in the Sierra Wilderness. This doesn’t happen through cheating but simply understanding human nature; it’s just hard to walk away when you’re winning. When it comes to investing, there are high risk ventures and secure ventures. High risk happens when you are betting on the volatility of the market. This is typically where day traders make their mark. However, if you want to get a decent and dependable return on your investment dollars then you should consider municipal bonds.

Municipal bonds are issued by government entities to raise money for their individual projects. Instead of borrowing the money, a government is actually asking you to make an investment in them by providing the funds they need. When enough people buy up a series of municipal bonds then the funds become available for the project. The key to most municipal bonds is that you’ll be paid back you initial investment plus dividends on the interest which you might have earned if you merely kept the money in a bank savings account. The one drawback is that you will be surrendering that initial investment for an extended period of time. Just like you shouldn’t gamble with money you don’t have, you shouldn’t buy a municipal bond if you can’t part with the capitol.

What a new bond holder gets in return for their investment are tax free pay outs. Whatever money you earn from the municipal bond interest becomes yours without any taxes taken out. Of course this all has to be worked out when you file your income tax return but it makes investing in municipal bonds a pretty safe bet.

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Should I Refinance?

The question, “Should I refinance my home mortgage?” is a question often posed by a growing number of people. We would rather hike through the Sierra Wilderness than think about refinancing our house. Home mortgages went from an all too prevalent tool applied by the finance industry to an almost extinct feature. Refinancing makes sense only after certain factors are in place to justify the costs involved in refinancing. Banks must charge you certain costs every time a mortgage loan is issued, such as an appraisal estimate of the value of your home, an inspection of your home, a clean title verification and underwriter fees.

Another question to consider is what the effective interest rates are at the time you consider refinancing. Since the recession, interest rates have been at their lowest in decades, proving that 2010 is a great time for securing very low interest rates that the US might not see again for several more decades to come. The caveat to this is that unless borrowers can qualify under today’s increasingly more difficult guidelines for obtaining a loan, then refinancing may not be an alternative. This potentially excludes many thousands of people with little money for a down payment, job history of less than two years, credit report scores less than perfect, and an income to debt ratio slightly higher than ideal. Banks have reduced substantially their exposure to bad mortgage risks and in turn left the market for home refinancing products quite bare.

It is advisable that prospective borrowers interested in refinancing their home should take the time to research all available options. Speak to your banker and read the fine print for whatever alternatives you are presented with. Ask questions and make sure to compare choices that are relevant comparisons, as well as be patient throughout the process to ensure that you don’t waste whatever limited opportunities exist in today’s market.



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